Riga welcomed 1.53 million overnight guests last year, proving this Baltic powerhouse is quietly drawing massive crowds. But if you head into the countryside unprepared, the local laws and logistics will eat you alive. I’ve spent weeks navigating Latvia’s cobblestones, forests, and Soviet-era relics to write this definitive Latvia travel guide. Here is how to survive the scams, eat like a local, and explore the country like a pro.

The attractions actually worth your time

Most people stick to Riga’s Old Town, which is pretty but can feel like a medieval theme park. To actually understand Latvia, you need to get out of the tourist bubble.

Start at the Riga Central Market. It’s Europe’s largest market bazaar, housed in five colossal, vaulted pavilions that were originally built as German Zeppelin hangars during World War I. Skip the generic souvenir stalls and head straight to the ‘Milti Un Gaļa’ counter for regional dumplings, or grab fresh tandoor flatbread at the ‘Registan’ Uzbek bakery. Get to the fish pavilion around 8:00 AM to see the daily catch before the crowds arrive.

Next, head to Kuldīga to see the Venta Rapid. Stretching up to 249 meters, it is Europe’s widest waterfall. If you visit during April or May, you’ll witness spawning vimba fish literally leaping through the air to clear the falls. Walk across the historic 1874 red-brick bridge—it is one of the longest brick bridges on the continent.

For something completely different, head to Liepāja and book a stay at Karosta Prison. Built for the Russian Empire and later used by the Soviet KGB, it is the only military prison in Europe open to tourists.

If you have the stomach for it, book their ‘Extreme Night’ package. You will be treated like an actual prisoner, subjected to Soviet-style interrogation, forced to sleep on iron bunks, and given harsh wake-up calls throughout the night. It is brutal, cold, and entirely memorable.

If you prefer wine to prison cells, head to the Abava River valley. The Sabile Wine Hill was registered in the Guinness Book of World Records as the northernmost open-air vineyard in the world. Locals have been tending vines on these slopes since the 14th century, and the local blends are surprisingly good.

What to eat (and where to find it)

Latvian cuisine is hearty, heavy on pork, and designed to get you through brutal Baltic winters. Do not leave without trying the national dish: Grey Peas with Bacon (Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi).

These are large, soft grey peas boiled and pan-fried with smoked pork belly and onions, traditionally served in a clay pot with a glass of cold kefir. You can get a solid, affordable version at Lido Vērmanītis or Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs in Riga for €4 to €12.

For a quick snack, look for Pīrāgi. These are crescent-shaped baked yeast buns stuffed with finely diced fatty bacon and onions. Grab them warm straight from the oven at Mārtiņa Beķereja, Riga’s oldest bakery, where they cost between €0.50 and €1.50 each.

Then there are Pelmeni—hearty regional dumplings stuffed with minced meat or cheese, served steaming hot with sour cream and fresh dill.

For a budget-friendly, Soviet-era cafeteria vibe, head to Pelmeni XL in Riga’s Old Town. A massive, steaming bowl will only set you back €2.50 to €5.00.

Scams, laws, and survival tips

Latvia is generally very safe, but there are a few local quirks and targeted scams that will ruin your trip if you aren’t paying attention.

You also need to watch out for pickpockets in crowded transit hubs. They operate in teams around the Riga Central Market and the pedestrian underpass tunnels connecting the Old Town, often using simple distraction techniques like bumping into you.

Additionally, Latvia enforces a strict safety reflector law (atstarotājs). If you are walking along unlit roads or dark city streets without a visible reflector attached to your clothing or bag, police can hit you with an on-the-spot fine of up to €30.

Finally, respect the “Right to Roam” (Dabas atvērtā visiem). While you can freely forage for berries and mushrooms in state-owned forests, this right does not extend to private land marked with private property signs. Wild camping on private land always requires explicit landowner permission.

How to get around without getting ripped off

Getting from Riga International Airport to the city center is incredibly straightforward. Bus No. 22 is your best bet—it costs just €1.50 if you buy it in advance via the Mobilly app or at an airport Narvesen kiosk. If you buy it directly from the driver, it costs €2.00, and the trip takes about 30 to 40 minutes.

For intercity day trips to Jūrmala, Sigulda, or Cēsis, stick to the trains. Tickets only cost €2 to €4 and can be bought easily via the Vivi app. If you are heading to Rundāle Palace or Bauska, skip the train entirely and take a regional bus, as they are far more frequent and reliable for those routes. If you plan to cross the border, our lithuania travel guide can help you plan the next leg of your journey.

Latvia is almost entirely cashless, so you can tap your card for everything from public transit to a quick coffee. Just keep a few euros in coins on hand for public restrooms and Central Market stalls. If you hire a tour guide in Riga, Daugavpils, or Rundāle Palace, make sure they are wearing an official badge issued by the Latvian Association of Professional Guides (Lpga) to ensure they are actually licensed.

Frequently asked questions about traveling in Latvia

Staying connected on the road

Latvia has some of the fastest internet in Europe, and Riga is packed with free public WiFi hotspots. If you want mobile data, local physical SIM cards cost between €9 and €31, but buying one requires you to present your passport for mandatory registration at the counter. If you want to skip the airport kiosk queues and have data the second you land, grabbing a Latvia eSIM from Latvia eSIM before you leave home is a much easier option. It gets you straight onto the high-speed local networks without the paperwork hassle, leaving you free to head straight for the dumplings.

Get your Latvia eSIM